It was an early morning start to exit Rochefort because if we’d have missed the lock gate it would not open for at least another 12 hours so there was no time to lose, we had to go.
Two hours down river we were back out at sea and facing île d’Aix. This inconspicuous island is just under ½ square mile with a population of some 200 souls.
With no marina the only access is by visitor ferry or to anchor nearly ½ a mile offshore and use the dinghy to go ashore. This was a very carefully planned trip! The weather forecast was for it to be settled, which was good, as we were now anchored so far away from the island, we looked more like at sea.
Similar to Fort Boyard, the island guards the entrance to the Charente & Rochefort, which was of significant military importance and so most of the island is a fortress with high castellated walls along most of its shores. For a lot of the 18c the British Navy held the island before withdrawing in 1763 and handing it back to the French as peace had been declared. During the Revolution of 1794 it became a prison for hundreds of priests who were rounded up and left to die on ships anchored just off its shores. Their remains were eventually brought ashore for burial.
When Napoleon visited in 1808, he reinforced the fortifications and despite a three day sea battle, the British Navy failed to re-take the island. Napoleon then had a modest house built here for the commandant of the fort a house it is believed that Napoleon intended to retire to one day.
After the defeat at Waterloo, Napoleon fled the battlefield to this island and with France turning their back on him, he hoped to be able to escape to North America. Sadly, this was not to be and between 12th and 15th July 1815 Napoleon spent his last days on French soil in this very house before surrendering to the British and being transported to St Helena in HMS Bellerophon. He died in exile in 1821.
With no cars, the island is stunningly tranquil, with quintessential French charm encapsulated in an enormous fortress and abandoned prison. All day long the small cafes and tumbledown shops buzz with tourists from Rochefort and La Rochelle. What is remarkable is the moment the last of the boats leaves the island it instantly goes to sleep for 12 hours. As night falls and the lights are turned off the island seems to disappear leaving us feeling vulnerable, anchored in the middle of the sea and totally in the dark.
6th September 2023
Trip Mileage 17 miles
Mileage Completed 2233 miles